A little way up the coast from Baltimore is one of the most picturesque villages in West Cork and one that is rich in history. From Skibbereen the road into Castletownshend descends past the sites of two important Bronze Age monuments – Knockdrum, a partially reconstructed stone fort, and Gurranes Stone Row (known as the ‘Five Fingers’ even though only three of them are still standing). The precipitous main street runs down to the sheltered Castlehaven inlet, scene of a naval engagement between Spanish and English fleets in 1601. There are ancient ruins on both shores – on the far one, the battle-scarred remains of Raheen castle and, on the near shore, a small 17th century star fort and ‘Swift’s Tower’ where the author of Gulliver’s Travels found inspiration.
There are several grand houses in the village, one of which was the home of Edith Somerville who, in partnership with her cousin Violet Martin, wrote The Irish RM stories (later turned into a successful television series). The two authors are buried side by side in the churchyard of St Barrahane’s which stands on a rocky height overlooking the harbour. The church itself is notable for, amongst other things, some fine stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke, a leading member of the Arts and Crafts movement in Ireland.
Once a busy trading and fishing port, Castletownshend today can seem like a place where time has stood still, an impression reinforced by the two trees growing in the middle of the main street – a metaphorical as well as literal brake on progress!
